[Road Trip] Piemonte | Serralunga Day 2024: Steel in the Spine, Velvet in the Soul

Fontanafredda comprises approximately 120 hectares (about 300 acres) of vineyard land, making it one of the largest contiguous estates in the Barolo DOCG. The vineyards are spread across prime Barolo-producing communes, including Serralunga d’Alba, where the estate is headquartered, as well as Barolo, Monforte d’Alba, and La Morra.

A Celebration of Place, People, and Power in the Glass

This past September, I was lucky enough to be invited back to Piemonte, in northern Italy—for an annual event where reverence met revelry inside the legendary gates of Fontanafredda for Serralunga Day 2024. Now in its third—and arguably most impressive—edition, this wasn’t just another tasting. It was a declaration: Serralunga isn’t just a commune—it’s a mindset.

At the heart of it all? The endlessly charismatic Andrea Farinetti, maestro of Fontanafredda and master of blending hospitality with high-voltage passion. With Andrea, wine isn’t poured—it’s performed. And on this day, the stage was set for a showstopper.

Andrea Farinetti pouring us a taste of his chillable, crushable, Fontanafredda Langhe Nebbiolo, which he crafted in the lighter style of Gamay-based Cru Beaujolais, with summer sipping in mind.

2021 Barolo Serralunga d’Alba Vintage Debuts:

Bold and Built to Last

This year’s main attraction was the official preview of the 2021 Barolo Serralunga d’Alba vintage for the Italian and International media in a room full of legends: including Giovanni Rosso, Luigi Vico, Luigi Baudana, Ettore Germano, Schiavenza, Diego Rivetti. The full list of Serralunga wineries participating included: Alessandro Rivetto, Angelo Negro, Bersano, Franco Boasso, Cantina del Nebbiolo, Cascina Adelaide, Diego Rivetti, Domenico Clerico, Enrico Serafino, Ettore Germano, Famiglia Anselma, Fontanafredda, Garesio, Giovanni Rosso, Luigi Baudana, Luigi Vico, Mauro Veglio, Palladino, Pico Maccario, Podere Gagliassi, Principiano Ferdinando, Schiavenza, Tenuta Cucco, Tenuta Rocca, Viberti Osvaldo, Villadoria and Vite Colte.

A panel of Masters of Wine—Gabriele Gorelli, Annette Scarfe, and Justin Knock—called it like they tasted it:
👉 “Bossy.”
👉 “Bold.”
👉 “A vintage that had something to prove—and proved it.”

The weather narrative read like a drama: no snow, a gentle winter, hail, frost, and then a blessedly balanced September. Yields were down 10%, and the results? Focused fruit, firm structure, and serious finesse.

Serralunga: A Commune Apart

Now, let’s zoom out. Serralunga d’Alba might not have the immediate name recognition of La Morra or Barolo proper—but insiders know: this is where structure reigns.
With ancient, iron-rich soils, Serralunga yields wines of intensity, longevity, and character. Compared to the soft-spoken charm of neighboring Monforte or Castiglione Falletto, Serralunga Barolos speak with depth and clarity, not volume.

Think of it this way:

• La Morra = elegance

• Barolo = balance

• Serralunga = authority

And yet, in 2021, that authority came with grace. From Garesio to Podere Gagliassi, the wines showed power without pretense. They didn’t ask for attention—they commanded it.

A Manifesto, and a Mission

After a blind tasting, we journalists were invited to craft a manifesto. I was honored to read it aloud that evening at the gala on behalf of the international press.

““The 2021 vintage celebrates a bold individuality born from the encounter between a sunny spirit and an important structure. On one side the vibrant colors of Impressionism, on the other the geometry of Cubism. A vintage that should not simply be evaluated, but contemplated in perspective, like a work of art. Its mission is evolution. It combines the harmony of the great vintages of the past with the ability to express itself pleasantly in the present. Among its peculiarities, energy, substance, elegance and strength. The 2021 vintage is a faithful interpreter of our time. It offers freshness, dynamic tannins and intense fruit. It lives contemporaneity by fully accepting the challenge, specific to the denomination, of the passage of time. With density and rigor, the Barolo di Serralunga d’Alba takes care with awareness of the potential and value of its terroir.””

— Serralunga Day 2024 Manifesto

A Dinner for the Soul (and a Cause)

That night’s Gala Dinner was pure Piemonte magic. A “Dieci Mani” (Ten Hands) feast brought together chefs from five of Serralunga’s top restaurants, including the Michelin-starred Guido Ristorante, led by Ugo Alciati.

I had the honor of representing the international press by reading the Serralunga Day 2024 Manifesto, compiled with the observations of all the journalists at the tasting.

Each course told a story, but more importantly, the evening raised funds for La Collina degli Elfi, a local nonprofit helping families and children recover after cancer treatments. A toast worth raising, again and again.

The Takeaway?

Serralunga is no longer Barolo’s best-kept secret. It’s a beacon—of terroir, tenacity, and timeless winemaking. And if 2021 is any indication, this commune isn’t just participating in Barolo’s future—it’s leading it.

International journalists included Gurvinder Bhatia, editor in chief of Quench Magazine; Jeff Porter of Wine Enthusiast; VinItaly Managing Partner Stevie Kim; VinItaly Italian Wine Expert Stephanie Johnson; and Roberto Bruno, longtime Chief Commercial Officer at Fontanafredda.

I’ve been invited back for this year’s edition, and am very much looking forward to attending this year’s Serralunga Day 2025, scheduled for September 8 at Fontanafredda.